The Carmel Market in Tel Aviv is one of the must sees on any trip to Israel. It’s an amazing place, full of sights, smells and sounds, a place where you really shouldn’t forget your camera. But if you’re feeling a little more adventurous, take a peek down the side streets that run off Carmel Market. You won’t be disappointed.
OK, if you’re fresh off the boat and a little pampered, you probably won’t enjoy walking down the streets that run parallel to the market. These back streets are accessed by taking a right turn into one of the small alleys about halfway down the market, and are mainly full of vendors selling meat. The smell can be a little overpowering, and mind where you walk – there’s a tendency for many of the vendors to throw spare bits and pieces into the gutter for the cats. Keep an eye out for the chicken feet, they are a favourite stomach churner of mine.
However, among the smells and sights, you can also find some decent little restaurants, serving some great, authentic Israeli food. Some of the places are nameless and known only by the name of the owner, others are known by the entertainment they offer, such as this one below (the singer’s name is Yeh-meeni), where the food is really rather excellent, especially the kebabs (cheap too, we paid 130 shekels for 4 people, including soft drinks):
The best advice is to try a place teeming with locals, Israelis usually know where to grab a bite to eat, and you can be assured that it’s safe if there are hordes of Israelis there, as there usually will be on Fridays.
Once you’ve headed out of the immediate vicinity of the Carmel Market, you’ll probably have made it into Kerem HaTemanim, a small Tel Aviv neighbourhood known for its Yemenite population and its closeness to the sea (it lies between the sea and Carmel Market).
Wander through the streets and alleys (don’t worry, you can’t really get lost, it’s a small neighbourhood!). You’ll probably come across two of the neighbourhood’s well-known restaurants, Zion and Medina, both in Peduim Street, and both worth a try. Here you can try traditional Yemenite dishes like Lahuh or Meat soup.
Kerem HaTemanim has only recently been renovated by the Tel Aviv municipality. What was once a rundown area is now an attractive option to rent and buy. Its ideal location and quiet streets are a big factor in its success. It’s still an area inhabited by many Yemenite Jews, who are largely observant, but is steadily taking on a few younger and more cosmopolitan newcomers.
