Welcome to our continuing series of interviews with the locals – an attempt to debunk the myth that all Israelis are shepherd beating, gun wielding, war hungry zionists. These Israelis are regular people that you might well meet on your trip here; guys that work in banks, girls that live and play in Tel Aviv, mothers holding down regular jobs and paying off the mortgage, and so on. We’ve asked them a few questions, they’ve given us their honest answers…
This time, partly in celebration of Tel Aviv’s 100th birthday, it’s the turn of Moshe (Moses). No, Moshe isn’t 100 too. I’ve known Moshe for a few years, he’s actually my father-in-law. OK, this piece won’t get all lovey dovey, I can assure you of that, but I thought it would be interesting to hear from somebody who has been here since Day 1 of Israel’s official existence, and actually a few years prior to it too.
Moshe was born in Tel Aviv, Israel, back in the 1930’s (I won’t publish the exact date, out of deep respect and bribery of a couple of beers), the time when Israel didn’t actually officially exist. A time when the world was under threat from the storm clouds gathering over Europe thanks to a certain Adolf Hitler. A time when cars were outnumbered by horses and carts. A time when new shoes weren’t bought, the existing ones just had their toe caps cut off.
Moshe and his siblings were born and raised in Neve Tzedek, one of Tel Aviv’s original neighbourhoods that has since become rather more upscale and yuppified. Tel Aviv has changed beyond recognition from those early days of running barefoot down a sandy Shabazi Street – Personally I don’t know what it must be like to watch a country grow from scratch into quite the modern metropolis, but I’m sure it must be a mixture of intense pride and amazement.
Moshe is NOT on Facebook, and wants nothing to do with Twitter, for those of you interested.
So Moshe, what are your first memories of growing up in Tel Aviv?
The first thing I can recall is the amount of horses and carts, sandy streets and open fields right next door. There was only one car in the whole of our neighbourhood which belonged to someone really rich, there was just so much more sand than paved streets and roads. I also remember there being more Arabs than Jews.
What do you remember from Israel’s War of Independence in 1948?
I was actually 12 (ooops, given it away!), so can remember quite a bit. A few things stand out in my mind: if you walked to the Carmel market from the Yemenite Quarter (a walk of less than 5 minutes) you had to constantly duck because of snipers sitting in the Arab minaret (next to the David Intercontinental hotel), while all the kids that lived on the outskirts of Tel Aviv were moved by lorry to a more central location on Allenby Street (Tel Aviv was largely surrounded by Arab villages in the early days), I remember that big lorry. I also recall one morning seeing a burnt corpse on the corner of our street, it was actually an Arab who worked in our neighbourhood but he’d apparently been trying to attack Jews on the first morning of the war.
You’ve seen Israel go through many wars and battles, were you ever worried that Israel’s time had come?
Never. When you grow up as a kid and your country has defeated all the Arab countries that wanted to destroy us (in the 1948 war), you grow up with a certain air of invincibility. And then in 1967 you destroy all your enemies in just six days…so that feeling that the army will do its job is always there.
When was your first trip abroad, and how did people react when you told them you were Israeli?
My first trip was in 1977, a tour of classic Europe. I felt immensely proud to be Jewish and Israeli, and most people we met were interested and also supported Israel. Lately, this has certainly changed. Obviously Israel is no longer the underdog, and our glory years (in terms of world support) after the Six Day War have all but gone.
What has been the biggest change you’ve seen in Israel throughout its years?
Without a question, the quality of life. We were so poor, we had almost nothing in the early years. Today, most Israelis have a good standard of living. Israel is certainly bigger, stronger and richer than it ever has been. As I see it, Israel has been around for 61 years and achieved much more in that time than America has achieved in 200 years.
How do you think Israel is seen by the world in general today?
As I said before, we were once largely supported by the world, now it is the Palestinians who are seen as the underdog so they naturally attract more of the world’s sympathy. I think Israel is seen as quite a modern country, especially with many successful hi-tech companies. I believe that rather than gaining the world’s sympathy, we have gained grudging respect and perhaps even a little fear.
What do you think visitors to Israel think of Israel?
What you see on your TV back home is not what you see when you get to the Holy Land. The way Israel is portrayed makes it seem that Israel is quite a big, strong country, but when you come to visit Israel you realise how small it actually is but with so may interesting things to see and do packed into such a small area.
What, in your opinion, is the best thing about Israel?
The people, the delicious variety of food, the beautiful beaches and the weather. Israel also has some of the most amazing places to visit that you can’t compare with anywhere else in the world – where else can you find somewhere like the Dead Sea?
What is “Israeli” in your eyes?
Unfortunately, the rudeness is what springs to mind. The Chutzpah and thoughtlessness that people show towards each other.
What is the must-see attraction you’d recommend to visitors?
There are so many great places to see: anyone coming to Israel must see the Old City of Jerusalem of course, as well as tourist spots in Nazareth, Bethlehem and the Jordan River (especially for the Christian tourist), the Dead Sea, and the main attractions of Tel Aviv.
Which pub or restaurant would you recommend to visitors?
There are many places to eat and drink in Israel, especially in cities like Tel Aviv and Jerusalem. In Tel Aviv, I wouldn’t like to name any specific place, but rather would recommend somewhere like the Namal (Port) in Tel Aviv, where there are a great collection of bars and restaurants, with the Meditteranean just metres away.
Where would you rather be, Israel or …?
I saw a documentary on a Brazilian city’s urban development (Curitiba?) and can safely say I would like to live there. Otherwise, the Holy Land is the only place for me.
Thanks Moshe. And Happy 100th Birthday Tel Aviv!